I am Made Up

Phew.... I made it.

A month ago, Karen of Did you make that launched a sewing community initiative to raise money for the National Literary Trust.  The aim being for people to donate funds, and pledge to make something within the month.

Well I've been sitting with lots of shirting fabric in my collection, and a plan to replace all my old work shirts with copies of Butterick 5526 (after seeing other bloggers raving about the pattern - e.g. Lauren and Erica), and I decided that would be my pledge.

And here it is. View D bodice (princess seams, love) with the long sleeves from views B/C/E, and lots of topstitching....  It nearly didn't make it to completion in time.  I had a week away with work and then Mal was over for 10 days from the UK (and we went and played in the mountains) so that all ate into my sewing time.  I'm trying to take more care with my sewing, not rush to get it finished but aim to take my time and improve the quality. I seem to be more relaxed about it these days, if I don't make a deadline I'm not staying up late and stressing myself out.

The fabric is a lovely light cotton with a slight stripe and sheen, and was one of my haul picked up in the fabric market in Ho Chi Minh City.  I can't remember how much it cost, but it wouldn't have been much, and I have high hopes of its longevity as the quality feels excellent.  The only problem was that it frayed really badly, which didn't cause any issues but I'm now prepared with Fray Check if it happens again!

I cut a size 12, and added an extra half inch to the side seams on the front and back pieces (so total extra 2 inches) but didn't make any changes to the princess seams.  Sorry, I don't have any means to take photos of me wearing the shirt (no tripod in Canada!) but I can report that the fit is spot on.  Usually I have to make adjustments for the armhole being too tight at the front but this feels perfect.  The only thing I might change is to make the cuffs a little wider as with the button done up they are a little tight (if you're wearing a watch).  The length of the sleeves is perfect though.

To make the shirt a little bit special (and because I can, after all that is the whole point of sewing your own clothes) I used some leftover patterned cotton for the inside of the collar stand and the cuffs. I love how it peaks out. Hopefully it looks quite stylish?!

All of my seams were flat felled. This is only the second time I've done flat felling and I think I'm improving a bit. It looks a little tidier than last time!  However, I do need to practise more on the sleeve seam, it could definitely be neater...

Sunday Sevens - 16th August

1:

My wonderful neighbours have done so much for me since I moved to Canada, so I'm repaying them by dragging Mrs E out on a bike ride every now and again. They have a 5 month old daughter, so she can't go far or for too long. But she appreciates the break from baby (hopefully!). We ended up out for about 1.5 hours heading north out of the city....

2:

I spent money on a posh mattress. Anyone who's stayed at our place knows I haven't done that for a long time.... The floor is more comfortable than our old mattresses (and North American King size vs UK double? No contest! Also not shipping the beds over will mean more space to bring bikes, fabric etc etc!)

3.

I went hiking. On a school night. I think this the first time ever!  Prairie Mountain is near West Bragg Creek out to the SW of Calgary. It's a favourite for evening jaunts and an excellent get fit/training walk, as it's only 3.5km to the top but with 700m ascent (that's a lot, some sections are over 45deg). The path is very well defined, there are no route choices, and the risk of meeting bears is very low (lots of people, no berry bushes).

I proved my fitness by making it to the top in 1h04, and then my stupidity by running down in 40 minutes. Cycling does not make you fit for running down hill, I couldn't manage stairs properly for the following two days....

4.

Tracing patterns and cutting fabric. Why does it take so long? I just want to get on and sew!!! This is going to be my first Butterick 5526 shirt (for work, in white , although there may be some hidden surprises....).

5.
In preparation for Mal's next visit from the UK in a couple of weeks time, I've invested in some hiking trail guides.  This is not your average guidebook, this is "Don't waste your time in the Canadian Rockies".  It grades the hikes on how good they are, the intros are informative and entertaining and the hiking guides are very well written.  It even comes with pamphlets for each hike that you can take with you (so you don't have to lug the book around).
This hike is from the "Don't bother" section....

6.

It was raining (people in Calgary aren't used to rain, they stop - much like Brits do when it snows).  So I went shopping.  And I bought Tea.  This is very important. I am after all from a nation of Tea drinkers.  This tea is very nice and quite expensive.  The Irish breakfast is quite a strong blend (think Yorkshire tea) with a deep bitter flavour, and the Kenyan is weaker but still has more to it than what you'd get in the supermarket out here.

7. 

I was hoping to finish my Onyx top this weekend, but I got distracted (I'm not very good at finishing things...). All I need to do is sew the buttons on to the cuff tabs.  Isn't it the prettiest Liberty fabric though (for those of us not into twee florals)?

The Made Up Initiative

The brilliant Karen at DidYouMakeThat is kicking off a fundraiser for the National Literacy Trust, where we all donate and pledge to make something (anything!) in the next month.  Any promotion of books is a.good.thing. I devoured books as a child, and regularly "couldn't get to sleep" (code for staying awake all night to finish a book....). In fact, that may have continued into adulthood when I'm home alone... If anyone notices me falling asleep at my desk....

I'm in real need of some new shirts for work as my current (old) RTW ones are looking very tired and past their best. I bought the Butterick 5526 ages ago as I really wanted something that looks a bit more tailored and I think the princess seams give the effect. Then I saw all the excellent versions made by Lladybird Lauren and I was sold.

I've been collecting light coloured fabrics with this plan in mind. The top and right ones came from Croft Mill and the left I bought at the market in Saigon. You probably can't see it here but the top one is white and pink in a kind of brink effect, and is more Oxford shirt weight. The right one is a bit lighter and has a herringbone type weave. The left is the lightest of the three and a slightly shiny stripe running down it (which you would have seen if I'd taken a picture of the right side of the fabric!!).

Anyway, given that this pattern and fabrics have been languishing around for a while, I'm pledging to get one shirt made up in the next month. It's going to be tight (my last shirt took ages)! This  month I already have a week out for a work trip to the U.S. and Mal is here for a week so I won't get anything done then (too busy out doing things together yay!) 

Now in Cow Town....

I've been gone from the blog for a long time (again) and that's due to the massive changes going on around here!  In the last 3-4 months I've up sticks and moved country!! Now coming to you from Calgary, Alberta, Canada!

This change really kicked off last year. We had our fantastic biking holiday to Indochina, then one of my colleagues moved to Singapore, and along with that there were significant changes going on with my place of work (which hasn't been a pleasant place to be for the last few years).  I had itchy feet, was bored, and truly dreaded getting up in the morning to go to work..... So when a job opportunity came up with my employer in the Calgary office, I applied.  And probably because our software is so specialised, and importing a Brit is cheaper than training someone from scratch - I got the job!

Because of the situation (customer relations and visa requirements), there was a very quick turnaround between me leaving my UK job and starting the Canada one.  So my poor long suffering boyfriend is stuck back in Blighty trying to sell the house, while I'm swanning around in the mountains with bikes and hiking boots.

And now my mother (Hi Mum!!) is complaining that I haven't been updating the blog, so she can't see what I'm up to (she didn't get on with Facebook, and doesn't use Instagram).  I thought I'd better start back up.  What better way to start, than with a western style shirt....

In honour of Calgary Stampede (ok, that was a month ago but I'm prepped for next year now) we have Simplicity 1538.  Lots of people were wearing plaid shirts at the Stampede (and at work during Stampede week - it's a uniform really....), but I wanted to make a more traditional style and I already had this pattern with the front and back yokes.

I bought the fabric here in Calgary, it was only $6pm and is quite a loose weave cotton so will be great for summer wear.  I cut a size 12 and graded out to 14 at the waist.  I often find the cuffs on shirts too tight so I cut a size 14 cuff and graded the sleeve out as well, but I think now they're a bit big - I'll try and get pictures at some point but I don't have a tripod here at the moment....  It might be a little tight around the top of the sleeve now - I have ex-climbing muscles at the front of my shoulder (pectoralis major? anyway that bit that creates the hollow of your armpit) that often create fitting issues.  So I might need to swap the sizing and do the sleeve head in a 14 and cuff in a 12.

I really like the yoke details, pockets and flaps in this pattern, and the general shape of the shirt, but I'm not so keen on the cuff placket.  It turned out quite neat, I just would like to have the placket visible - so I'll hunt around for different methods when I make this shirt again. Oh and if you look closely at the left cuff in the back photo below, you can see that I got the placket the wrong way round....

The instructions tell you to gather the excess in the back before attaching to the back yoke, but I didn't like the look of the gathers so created a pleat in the centre instead. The yoke pieces are all cut on the bias as well, so you get that diagonal plaid.

I did manage to match the plaid across the front and almost at the side seams, but the button placket is 'upside down'.  I haven't decided if I like that, or if I'd prefer all the lines to match across the front. I really should have got the pocket flaps in line as well I suppose.

I did try to flat fell all my seams, which was easy enough to do (plenty of tutorials if you search on line).  For the next one, I'd prefer to have the two rows of stitching on the outside though, so I'll need to remember to sew all the seams wrong side together first.  All the double rows of topstitching are in the pattern instructions as the 'Western Style' design feature,, and I even used Tilly's trick of moving the needle over (I used position 5) and lining the edge up with the centre of the foot to get the neater line.  If you look really really closely you can tell which were the first wonky tries, and what came later with more practise!

And just because I felt like it, I added a loop to the collar on the inside of the shirt!

A hot off the press Jasper Sweater!!

I know I'm not supposed to be buying fabric, but last week Paprika patterns released their second design, and it's the one item of clothing that I wear the most.

Enter the Jasper Sweater.....

Copyright Paprika Patterns - source

Isn't it the cutest ever? A fitted princess seam hoodie with tube pocket? That just ticks all the boxes!

Unfortunately (or fortunately) the release coincided with a crazy early day at work which meant I finished at lunchtime and was able to pop in to Abakhan on the way home.  Rooting through the fabric bins I found 1.85m of thick sweater fabric in blue/teal (my favourite colour, so destiny!) for the grand price of £11.

I cut a size 3 and graded out to a 4 at the waist (my usual type of adjustment), deciding on the sweater with hood version as that'll get the most wear (I do love the cowl and dress as well though!). Not having done princess seams before I wasn't sure which bits to grade so I left the size panels as standard and graded the front and back pieces.  I forgot about the pocket though!

Fortunately I realised before cutting the fabric, so cheated and laid the pocket and front bodice pieces on top of each other to cut around....

Usually I'll add an inch or so to the bodice length as I'm long in body/short in leg, but this is drafted for 5'7'' (I'm only 5'5'') and the quoted finished bodice length seemed fine.

The instructions were really clear with additional photo tutorials on the website for the tricky bits - welt pockets and hood construction. I was paying extra attention for these so it all went swimmingly. I could see where it would be easy to get confused when attaching the hood/cowl to the bodice, there was a lot of fabric!  Seems I wasn't paying attention the whole time though as I sewed the top of the pocket and lining together, but also sewed the front bodice.  However I really like that curved line of stitching across the front so it's staying (and unpicking from thick sweater fabric? Na, too hard....)

I did add some twill tape to the shoulder seams, which I've started doing to my knit projects to stop them stretching out of shape.

Before adding the cuffs I tried it on (as recommended in the instructions!!) and decided to take 1" off the sleeve length.  I think they're spot on now.

I'm still not sure about the seam finishes.  There were a couple of options suggested in the instructions but they involve pressing the seam open.  The problem is the knit stitch on my sewing machine (which is fantastic BTW) means that you can't open the seam.  For the back hood seam I sewed a straight stitch so was able to open the seam and then topstitch the seam allowances down.  But for the neck and front hood/cowl seam I used the knit stitch. In the end I pressed it to one site, and then used the twin needle to topstitch it down. It's not my finest work, but I'm happy enough with it (but not happy enough to take a picture and show you!!).

I'm not sure looking at these photos if the hood is a bit too big? It looks fine on the Paprika patterns shots so maybe mine just needs a wash to soften up a bit.

The only thing I might change on the next one (other than sewing the pocket correctly) is to add a little width on the bottom edge. It's not too small, but there's not a lot of ease so I'll see what it's like paired with jeans.

Little Julia

I decided over the course of last year, whilst wearing my makes and during MeMadeMay, that I needed more second top layers - jumpers and cardigans.  So when the last Perfect Pattern Parcel came along I jumped at the chance as there were a couple of patterns that were already on my wish list, one of them being the Julia cardi from Mouse House Creations.

I'd already seen loads of versions on the blogsphere (like Scruffy Badgers one) and decided in was the right kind of slouchiness, and I'd purchased some dark grey ponte roma jersey from Abakhan for exactly this purpose.

I don't know why but I completely ignored all the pattern sizing information and blithely cut a small, as that fitted on the bust.  As you can see, it's a little small for my hips.... Hopefully it'll be fine wearing it as due to the slouchy fit and the lack of front closing. I do really like the style though so I'm going to make another in medium (when I'm allowed to buy more fabric....)

As you can see (!) I cut the long sleeved version, but I also went with the doubled over collar as the inside shows and I didn't want a visible hem.  It was really easy to sew everything together, the instructions are clear and there aren't any complicated steps - the ballpoint needle and walking foot make sewing knit fabric an absolute breeze! I was so lazy that I didn't even press the seams after sewing.  The only change I made was to add some twill tape to the shoulder seams to stop them stretching.

My machine has a couple of decorative knit stitches, so I used one to stitch the collar pieces together and neaten the cuffs. I ended up doing this in black thread (as I ran out of grey!!), but I really like the way it shows.

Mabel in Black

My favourite red jersey skirt (M&S for a fiver in the outlet shop, worn here with my biker jacket) has been worn every week and is looking a bit sorry for itself. Fortunately the Colette Mabel pattern was purchased when on offer and I picked up a metre of lovely heavy black jersey (probably Ponte Roma) for about £7 at the Vietnam fabric market last month....It was always going to be!

I cut a small, grading out to medium on the waist and added an extra 1.5" to the length. I don't like things too short and I wanted this skirt for work. This pattern is so economical that with some creative folding I managed to get it out of half a metre of fabric (so yep that's a skirt of £3.50 then....I win!!).

I sewed the main skirt first and found that it gaped a little in the small of my back so took the back seam in by 3/8" at the top. To make it a bit more snug I sewed the side seams at 4/8" on the waistband and 5/8" on the lining. All the stitching was done with the knit stitch on my machine and a ballpoint needle.

For the hem I turned up by 1/2" and used a decorative stretch stitch on my machine (because I couldn't be bothered to wind another bobbin to use twin needles!).

All the sewing took 1.5 hours...

I love this pattern. Simple, quick and economical. And I think the waistband makes it look much nicer than my tatty red skirt (not to mention the fabric being much better quality)!

There's going to be many more of these to come, it's just so quick and easy to make, not to mention comfy to wear.

Oh, and the spotty pink top. That's an unblogged Colette Sorbetto that I made for the Vietnam holiday - cotton poplin left over from lining my Kwik Sew jacket, and a bit of bias binding... And the model. That's Hetty. She arrived at Christmas. I think I still need to do a little bit of adjustment to get her to my size...

Super Apron...

I made an apron as a Christmas present last year for my Cousin's little girl (piccie here) and her big brother requested his own as he's quite into baking!

There's 5 years or so difference in age between the two of them and I wasn't sure how much to scale up the one I'd already made, so I went hunting and came across this tutorial - http://yardsandyards.blogspot.co.uk/2010/06/yards-and-yards-original-best.html

I found some cool Superman fabric from Frumble, and to make it a bit more robust used some old jeans for the backing! But the leg of the jeans wasn't really wide enough to follow the measurements on the tutorial so I just made it as big as I could with the material available. When I tried it on, the apron seemed big enough for me so I think it'll be perfect for him.  Hope he likes it!!

Selfish sewing 2014

I suppose I should be jumping on the ‘year in review’ bandwagon that is prevalent in blogland.  I thought I’d been completely useless at blogging this year but looking back that’s really only been towards the second half of the year. I didn't make as much for some reason and what I did make didn’t get blogged. I think that’s mainly because I struggle with taking photos of my makes. Luckily I have two birthday/Christmas presents that will help with that situation – my dressmakers dummy and my new camera! The first is still in the garage waiting to be built and fitted to me (once we've got the New Year visiting out of the way), and the second just needs Remote control – hopefully photos will be a bit more relaxed and in focus now!

So on to this year’s makes, I think the list is as follows:

Named Blair batwing

Sewaholic Renfrew

Deer & Doe Chardon

Deer & Doe Sureau

Deer & Doe Belladone

BHL Victoria Blazer

BHL Anna dress – midi and maxi

Kwik Sew 3764 jacket – and one for sis

Tilly’s Mathilde blouse #2

Deer & Doe Datura top

Tilly’s Miette skirt #2

Grainline Moss skirt

McCalls 6515 trousers – shorts and long version (no photo!)

Colette Moneta dress

Colette Sorbetto – x2 (no photos!)

So all in all, not really a bad year!

My #1 favourite of all time is the Kwik Sew jacket – I have worn that baby constantly since it was made. The wool was pretty cheap though, so it’s not looking it’s best and I have grand plans for another version next year (warning: may involve pleather…). 

In no particular order my other favourites are

1.       Both BHL Anna dresses – the midi is on constant Work rotation, and the maxi I wore pretty much every evening on our Indochina holiday (and got lots of compliments from travel companions!).

2.       Grainline Moss skirt – was always a little big, and as I've lost weight is now too baggy to wear. I’m not sure I can be bothered to alter it but I do have some brown corduroy to make another one!

3.       Colette Moneta – such an easy make, and another on constant rotation. Only problem is it’s a bit low on the back for me and I need a bit more warmth on my neck in the evil work air-con. Next one will probably be a Moneta Renfrew frankenpattern…..

4.       Tilly’s Miette skirt (summer edition) – I just love the bright summery yellowness of this skirt!

By Hand London Anna, again? Surely not!

Yep, not satisfied with two (here) I decided another one was in order. This started with the fabric - I was in Abakhan buying supplies off the list and desperately trying not to purchase anything that wasn't included. However I spotted this wax cotton in the fabric bins and it was meant to be! Bonus - when I got it to the tills it was only £10 and there was about 5.5 metres there!!

We're off on holiday in a couple of weeks time, so what I really needed was a maxi dress, and this fabric paired with the Anna dress was perfect.

I cut a 12 grading out to 14 at the waist (as previously), but as I've lost weight this version feels a little loose around the waist. No bad thing for the forthcoming holiday binges.... I also think I need to add half an inch or so to the bodice length for it to sit on my waist a bit better.  If I remember I might do that next time!

I love this pattern, but being comparatively short (I took 6 inches off the skirt length!) I'm not sure if the maxi length works for me. I think I prefer how my midi one looks.

This cotton is quite stiff and I wasn't sure how it would feel against my skin, so I lined the bodice with cotton lawn. I used french seams everywhere, and bias binding around the waist.  I even hand stitched the hem, skirt split and around the armsycle.

I'm quite proud of how the lining turned out. I didn't want to have any white peaking out of the neckline so I used the provided facing pieces attached to the lining.

It does swoosh quite well too....

But you don't get any fluffy cat pictures, as he scarpered...

(nb. neighbours cat not ours, and he likes our garden because there are lots of wild bits with small rodents to torture...)

Me Made May '14 - Week Three

Getting a bit behind on the blogging, but I did manage to take pictures at the time...

Named Patterns Dakota dress

I'm still not convinced about this one, although it is comfy to wear as its jersey.  I think it's because I was so puzzled about the shawl collar and I'm still not convinced I did it right.  For some inexplicable reason, as well as adding my usual inch to the bodice length I also lengthened the sleeves and now they're seriously too long. Other than that, I love the skirt shape.  You can't really see it in this photo, but it dips down at the front/back and up at the sides.  At some point I'll make a skirt from the pattern, one day.

Simplicity 2451 skirt

Again.... this week it's not raining and you can see the shaped waistband and pleats.  No idea why I'm looking down again.

Tilly's Miette skirt

New make, just finished! I bought this fabric last year in Goldhawk Road and wasn't really sure what I'd use it for, but it's perfect as a summer wrap around skirt! This counts twice for this week, it's so happy I had to! More details in a later post (if I get around to it).... Oh and I forgot to say, I actually really like this length, and this photo - I don't know how but my legs look skinny!

Grainline Moss skirt

Another new make - cheap grey chord and kick ass turquoise top-stitching. I managed to completely muck up the fitting though and had to take in loads of the back seam. Ho hum. I might post more details on this later...

Me Made May '14 - Week Two

OK, now we're into week two and it was a bit more challenging this week as I was down at my parents for a few days (hence the not great photos).  I've also realised now that I haven't actually blogged any of these makes so I might add a few more words to this post rather than create other posts....

Sewaholic Renfrew top
I love this top and I wear it loads, in fact we did a  last minute week in Majorca last autumn and I basically wore it all week.  This is the cowl neck version with 3/4 length sleeves, and I have another version in white (bad choice of colour) that has full length sleeves but a short bodice.  I wore this version a couple of times during the week.

Tilly's Mathilde blouse

I love how sophisticated this top looks (sorry, naff picture).  It's from a lightweight ivory fabric - I guess poly cotton mix as it washes well but it was a nightmare to sew as it kept moving around.  It does have red buttons down the back though. Which rock!

Deer & Doe Datura blouse

I had scraps of both of these fabrics left over from other projects and just about managed to scrape enough to make the top although the facing yoke pieces are from the patterned cotton rather than the plain linen (as it is in the instructions).  I also complete mucked up attaching the bias binding around the neck and ended up with too much fabric between the cutout points so I folded and hand tacked the excess.  I made the bias tape too narrow as well (as there wasn't much linen left) so didn't want to undo the stitching and reattach it.  As a wearable muslin I'm really happy with it, but as well as doing the neckline properly, next time I will drop the darts, reshape the armholes and take in some of the width on the hem line.

Simplicity 2451 skirt

Sorry, it was pouring with rain! This is my first ever fitted skirt, the fit isn't great but it's comfortable and I wear it loads.  I've got second one with better fit which will be along later in MMM!!