Friday, 2 May 2014

Friday I'm in Love

This is Hazel's fault.  She posted up her beautiful version of the Kwik Sew 3674 jacket and I was instantly smitten.

I had many plans in quick succession and finally decided on some Navy wool mix from eBay and pink polka dot cotton poplin for the lining from Minerva Crafts (next plan involves Harris tweed, next winter).

Topstitching rocks.....

I was determined not to rush to finish this, take my time, not cut corners and if it's wrong or I'm not happy with the finish, to unpick it and go again.

To that end, I overlocked the edges of all the wool front and back pieces before starting the construction (it's all in the prep- but the delay was killing me!)

I topstitched (2.6mm stitch length mostly, 2.8mm on the waistband), with topstitch thread on needle and normal thread on bobbin.  I'm not sure if that's right, but you don't get much topstitch thread on a reel and I wanted to make it last!  My machine managed with this as long as I took it slowly, especially where I was sewing through +4 layers of wool. I used my Janome red needles which I usually use for quilting and have a bit more strength than the blue ones.  I did have a few breakages - needles and heavy metal zips don't interface too well!! My machine was sounding quite unhappy about that one....

The pattern doesn't include a lining, although there is interfacing on the front crossed over lapel panels and a back yoke. I made the lining for the jacket by basically just making another jacket out of lining material apart from the front lapel pieces, used the wool for these. Also yoke piece was attached to the back lining by just laying it over the top and sewing around the neck line.

Who wouldn't be happy with pink spotty sleeve gusset?

I attached the outer and lining by sewing all the way around the lapels and neck as per the instructions.  When it came to the bottom, I basted the two together and then attached the waistband as instructed.  For the sleeves I attached the facing and gusset to the zip/outer, then for the lining I cut another facing, made the opening 1/4'' bigger and turned them 1/2'' shorter then ironed it and hand sewed all the way round.

Sunshine, dark wool, pale lining, photographer malfunction

Snaps were surprisingly easy to go in... the epaulette ones are fully functional.  And you'll notice they are the correct way around, sewn in at the shoulder with the snap at the collar - unlike the instructions...

I started sewing up the bottom and waist band and then changed my mind about the inside lapel.  Originally I was just going to put in a button and buttonhole to hold the lapel in place when I do the jacket up, but then decided I'll probably end up wearing it with the jacket half open and the lapels folded out most of the time so it would look much better with a snap on the left lapel.  And I didn't want the back of the snap showing on the outside of the right lapel so this had to be only attached to the lining/facing (hence the unpicking, contorted snap hammering, and the sewing back up of the waistband!)

I love this jacket.  I'm going to wear it all the time!!!

My reasons for sewing are pretty much as a creative hobby (which is why most of my quilts are given away), and the fact that I have something to show for it at the end is a bonus, along with the fact that (when I have more idea about what I'm doing) they might actually fit better.  But a couple of people have asked me how long it took to make my jacket and I have no idea, as it tends to be a half hour here and there, so I'm going to try to start making a note.

And for interest the total cost for this jacket was about £50 which includes the pattern, wool, lining, thread (inc posh top stitching thread!), three metal zips, and a big pack of snaps and the fitting tools (so I now need to make more clothes with snaps....). 


  1. That is amazing - I'm so impressed!:-)

  2. Ahhh! This looks amazingggg, you done such a good job! I love your wool and lining choices :) and although it's a labor of love, the results are definitely worth it! Oh and I am taking no responsibility for you having to make this jacket, but let's be honest, every one needs a version of it in their lives! x

  3. Fantastic job on this. I am waiting for the pattern and am so excited about it!